Aniline: Dyes and finishes that contain no pigment. When used on leather they provide a rich, clear stain that allows the natural character of the article to be seen.
- Cementable: Refers to leather(s) that can be glued as a means of final attachment during the construction of leather goods.
- Combination Tanned: Leathers that are tanned using both chrome and blends of vegetable extracts along with emulsified or unrefined oils and waxes.
- Corrected Grain: Leather that has been sanded to make its surface more uniform.
- Emboss: To give a flat piece of leather a pattern or texture that stands out in relief through pressing with tremendous pressure.
- Fat Liquored: Leather that has been nourished and conditioned with emulsified oils.
- Full Grain: Leather that has its surface left completely intact, showing all natural characteristics of the hide.
- Hand Glazed: Leather that has been polished with a glass rod.
- Hot Stuffed: Leather that has been nourished and conditioned with unrefined oils and greases. This is achieved without the use of water and emulsifiers and gives a much richer feel. Hot stuffed leathers typically exhibit pull-up and good water resistance.
- Mill-Dyed: Leather that has had dyes introduced during retannage. Also referred to as drum-dyed.
- Pasted: Leather that has been dried by fixing it to large glass or ceramic plates. Pasted leathers have very little stretch and smooth grain character.
- Pull-up: The temporary lightening of certain leathers when folded. This is caused by displacing oil and waxes.
- Retan: To impregnate and condition preserved hides with tanning liquors and extracts. Retan formulations at Horween Leather Company are proprietary and developed in house.
- Shell: A dense fiber structure found only in the hindquarters of equine animals.
- Toggled: Leather that has been air-dried after being stretched on a metal screen and clamped into place.
- Vegetable Tanned: A tanning method that employs vegetable liquors derived from tree barks. This method of tanning is very traditional and takes longer to achieve than chrome tanning.
- Weight: Also referred to as thickness or substance. Leather is generally sold in ounces or millimeters, and in increments of 1/2 oz or 0.2 mm, respectively. For example, 5 – 5 1/2 oz (or 2.0 – 2.2 mm) is a typical footwear weight produced.
- Wet Stuffed: Similar to Fat Liquored, Wet Stuffed leathers are nourished and conditioned with emulsified heavier oils and waxes.